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If Only Fashion Could Combat Racial Injustice In The Way That It Served As A Feminist Tool

From the abolishment of corsets to the evolution of miniskirts, to the rise of power suits to the acceptance of lingerie as an outer garment, fashion has proved its efficacy in support of protesting against gender inequality and oppression throughout history.

As of today, we are not saying that no fabric in the fashion world devalues women, but most fashion houses have been and will continue to be extremely active with their support of female empowerment. Sure, one can argue that the business-head industry is being hypocritical, has been body shaming towards women, and its celebration of misogynists has plagued the industry. Fashion houses have been putting price tags on feminism, and it appears that the industry’s exploitation of feminism has only become more explicit.

But undeniably, there were pinnacle moments that were real feathers in the cap of the fashion industry to be showing women’s solidarity and strength.

Namely, the mini skirt in the freewheeling 60s became allied to second-wave feminism. The decade was already being profoundly provocative and rebellious with hippie’s movement, black panther party, the youth-quake… and the ultra-high hemline presented by the British designer Mary Quant brought the revolution to its height. As mini-skirted women strolled down the street as they pleased, the gender climate was inevitably on the verge of transforming.

Young women began gaining awareness of self-expression and individuality, and they realized that clothing would be the most visible and direct form of expression. Hence the mini skirt became the dominant symbol of women’s liberation and youngster’s distinction from traditional morality. Activists such as Gloria Steinem sported the mini skirt during political rallies. At one point, miniskirts became so politicized that women protested outside of Dior’s showroom because Dior didn’t show miniskirts in their collection. They wielded signs reading ‘Mini skirts forever.’

12th September 1966: Girls from the British Society for the Protection of Mini Skirts stage a protest outside the House of Dior, for its ‘unfair’ treatment of mini skirts. (Photo by Larry Ellis/Express/Getty Images)

Another highlight in the history of fashion as a robust political force was the birth of Denim Day. In 1992, a rape conviction was overturned because the chief judge deemed it was consensual sex simply because the victim was wearing tight jeans; thereby, she must have helped the person who raped her remove her jeans.

When Italian female law workers showed up in the Parliament wearing jeans in solidarity with the sexual assault victim, fashion as the most observable political tool once again attested its power in making social statements, and further upheld the movement against the misconceptions that surround sexual violence.

Blue jeans with messages challenging misconceptions about sexual violence, hung by the UCLA Clothesline Project, are seen on the University of California Los Angeles campus during Denim Day on April 21, 2004. David McNew / Getty Images file (Source: NBC News)

Feminists have used fashion for achieving emancipation and pushing the boundaries of traditional gender perceptions over the course of time. While the Women’s Movement has more to overcome, more women and men are taking a stand together for the future.

However, for an intricate, ever-evolving global industry that is capable of bringing serious issues to light, a distorted and destructive attitude towards racial justice has always been entrenched in the industry.

NEW YORK, NEW YORK – FEBRUARY 07: A model walks the runway wearing Junkai Huang during the Fashion Institute Of Technology’s Fine Art Of Fashion And Technology Show at Pier 59 Studios on February 07, 2020 in New York, New York. (Photo by Bennett Raglin/Getty Images for Fashion Institute Of Technology)

When a student designer from the world-prestigious Fashion Institute of Technology sent models down the runway wearing oversized red lips and “monkey ears,” it was more tragic than Shakespeare’s tragedies.

The designer’s ignorance aside, where are the advisors and directors? We certainly expect more from the institution. It’s not the scenario that demands someone to be black to recognize that this is something offensive. It’s scary to imagine that any professor in the country, regardless of race, would lack the most basic historical perspective. If there was one single black person in affiliation or in charge of this show, how is it that he/she could manage to turn a blind eye to this? Simple answer: Because there was not.

Alarm bells have kept ringing for the past two years: Gucci’s blackface sweater, its religiously ignorant “Indy Full Turban”, Prada’s denigrating blackface accessories, Dolce&Gabbana’s Chinese-disparaging ad campaign, and Vogue’s misidentifications of Asian actresses and Muslim journalist.

Shall we stop here, the list goes on. But the point is that these incidents hold up a mirror to the industry, and reflect its overwhelming whiteness and ingrained exclusivity towards racial minorities.

WashingtonPost: “Racially-charged items at the Prada’s Soho store. After a social media post and ensuing complaints, the company apologized and pulled the product.”(Photo by Chinyere Ezie)

The most depressing thing about this are the ignorant 'why is this not ok for white people to do' comments. Understand the history, the prejudice against Sikhs, and the blindness of your own privilege in that you can't even contemplate why this is a huge problem https://t.co/AP2n2N6dGy
— Poorna Bell (@poornabell) February 23, 2018

They sure did put more models of color on the runway in recent years, and there have been artistic directors of color on board. However, the deep, institutionalized “illness” cannot be fixed by the simple “cosmetic surgery”. It’ll only further the divergence if people feel obligated to bring representations for political correctness. Being woke does not make real equality. The state of mind that combat racial injustice should be rising from genuine respect and appreciation. And real inclusivity will never be achieved if the industry just keeps putting the group in the superior position and treating the representation of others as charity cases.

That being said, when it comes to promoting gender justice and female empowerment, we rest assured that the fashion industry is at hand. But in light of grappling with the proliferating racial abuse and prejudice amid COVID-19 pandemic, fashion, as it has proven to be a potent political force, does not set out to join forces with changing such circumstances.

Maybe the time hasn’t come. The industry is trembling enough. And it’s relieving and gratifying to see that the industry’s busy taking measures in support of healthcare workers. But when the desperate time is over—–

I wish, from the bottom of my heart, that another fashion piece will stick out and give people who have been the target of the crassness, a loud, visible political voice.

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Oscars 2020 Red Carpet: Old Hollywood Glamour Die-Hard

When Eminem shows up to perform his 18-year-old Oscars winning song “Lose yourself” at Oscars 2020, it confuses us what year is it exactly. Nostalgia’s a bitch, and Oscars 2020 red carpet confirms it. Let’s take a closer look at some of the Oscars’ red carpet looks this year, which promisingly resembles more or less the things that we are familiar with. On top of all that Hollywood glitz and glamour, we can’t help but wonder “What year is it”?

Photo: Getty Images Penélope Cruz wore a Chanel Spring 1995 Haute Couture gown at Oscars 2020

This gown screams Chanel. Why? Look at that iconic camellia flower. As Penélope stepped out the carpet, I literally blurted out that this gown was the incarnation of Chanel’s shopping bag. In a closer view, the strips around the neck, the layers of tulle lining, and the pearl belt are very vintage Chanel, all of which keep up the sophistication and elegance. It turns out that this dress revived a look from Chanel’s Spring 1995 Haute Couture archive. Hollywood stars are going vintage. Even if it’s not for the sake of the planet, the retro style has its irresistible magic to lure us into wearing vintage.

Let’s look at another Chanel Couture wore by Margot Robbie. This bustier silk gown is once again revitalized from Chanel’s 1994 Haute Couture collection. Those sleeves, it’s all about those detached dripping sleeves! However, as she opens her arms like the fourth picture shows, it may appear to be a bit like a crow with open wings. ( sorry! ) Besides, it looks like she stoled that pearl-adorned sapphire pendant from Thanos’s bejeweled Infinity Gauntlet. And the tassels… What can I say, I may never find tassels flattering.
(Photo: Getty Images)

Due to copyright, I linked the original images of these two Chanel Couture gowns from Europeana. Penélope Cruz’s Chanel Spring 1995 Haute Couture gown: https://www.europeana.eu/portal/en/record/2048212/chanel_css95_0065.html

Margot Robbie’s black Chanel Spring 1994 Haute Couture gown: https://www.europeana.eu/portal/en/record/2048212/chanel_css94_0082.html?q=1994

Photo: KEVIN MAZUR VIA GETTY IMAGES
**Kristen Wiig in Valentino Spring 2020 Couture**

While Twitter users pointed out that Kristen Wiig’s dress looked like a slice of lasagna, some others compared it to a vagina (can’t deny that thought came to me as well). The dress also seems to me like a beating heart just ripped out by Damon or Klaus from The Vampire Diaries. Well, at least we can agree, this dress is anything but boring.

This Oscar de la Renta gown with a corseted bodice and dripping pewter well picks up the topical theme of sustainability. The thing I like the most about this gown is that it has the 20s, Gatsby vibe out there thanks to the pewter fringing and the fabric choice of silver satin. The pewter will swish sparkly when Scarlett Johnanson turns around and round and round(however, it’s the red carpet, not the dance floor, and she’s not drunk.) Photo source: celebmafia

Photo: Getty Images
Caitriona Balfe wore a Valentino Spring 2020 Haute Couture gown

For as long as I stared at these two gowns, fragrance bottles were the only things I could think about. I don’t think it’s the combo of black and blush pink’s fault. The huge bow on the shoulder? The wide black waistband? Pink tulle and topped with tight black lace? They do not look very expensive to me, couture-much? Not feeling it, sorry.

Photo: Getty Images Lauren Dern in a pale pink Armani Privé gown

I have a perplexing feeling regarding this gown. Starting off, it assures me that the color combination of pink and black has done nothing wrong. Well, what’s wrong here is probably that crystal fringe. It first reminded me of the crystalized curtain coming from Billy Porter’s spectacular remote-controlled hat at the Grammys two weeks ago, as if that curtain partly transformed in black onto this dress. On second thought, if without that fringe, this gown sure as hell looks like a prom dress which you can find everywhere. But with that fringe, I bet nine out of ten people would say it is too much like a belly dancer’s top.

This Louis Vuitton gown features all the elements of old Hollywood glamour. Look at its beaded crystals and the sweetheart neckline, and the color of bright scarlet red. Don’t forget that satin shawl. All of a sudden, the picture of Marilyn Monroe in a white satin gown with a fur shawl is flashing in my head. (Photo: Getty Images)

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What Goes Around Comes Around

Truth be told, the part of my brain that handles fashion is still living in the world of Sex and the City, and it is hard to get out for a reason. SATC really has something on fashion—feel the Dior Saddle Bag “hurricane”, what goes around does come around, and I’m not lying. Hey, can’t deny that Carrie Bradshaw’s Christian Dior Fall 2000 newspaper dress is still to die for to this very day.

Another fashion secret of mine is that I stage scenes and characters in my head when I actually do the shopping. A full tulle skirt and an ivory beret, or an off-the-shoulder polka dot belted dress with a pair of red patent heels would instantly make me picture myself wandering in Paris and walking into Ladurée, just as Carrie Bradshaw did (without stepping in dog poop). With such scenes flashing in my head, I can’t resist opening my wallet and making the purchase.

Images on this post are screenshots I took from”Sex and the City”on Amazon Prime Video

Speaking of my fashion aesthetics, I appreciate thorough craftsmanship. When I look at a piece of clothing, I tend to focus on its construction, fabric, and color palette, consecutively. That’s why my blog will tend to focus on retro fashion, sometimes with a modern twist—-think about the combination of The New Look and power suits. I’m open to opinions and constructive criticisms. Let’s discuss and have fun!

There was a phase when I thought I was so educated, and fashion was way too manipulated by capitalism and consumerism. I was being a snob, an upstanding critical thinker, and I would even snore at sensational fashion feeds. I intentionally separated myself from following fashion trends and quarterly hot items. Even today, I still don’t believe in trends, as I think trends are set by the business world, and I don’t want consumerism to cloud my mind and devour me. I guess joke’s on me, cowboy boots and leopard prints are lying in my closet laughing.

Anyway, I realize the nature of fashion is to make ourselves feel beautiful, powerful and confident. As long as we are happy, what else matters? I hope that we can all find peace with ourselves, and gradually find our voices, through fashion. Maybe one day I will stop evaluating a dress by fantasizing myself in it as another character, but instead I would be drawn to a gorgeous dress just for the sake of feeling it is for me. But before then, what’s wrong with trying out different roles until the day we find a way to truly embrace and define ourselves? Join me on this journey to find empowerment through fashion, and establish our own characters. 🙂

Could COVID-19 Stimulate A Global Fashion Revolution?

*Surreal*, David Bailey, 1980 Photo: Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photo © David Bailey

Today, as we knew it three months ago, would be the Met Gala, the so-called “the Oscars of Fashion” — a black-tie extravaganza held the first Monday in May by the Metropolitan Museum of Art to raise money for the Costume Institute. While as we know it today, that no longer exists. Instead, like everything else now, a virtual version of the gala is hosted by Vogue, to look back and celebrate.

By now, we all acknowledge the fact that the COVID-19 pandemic has brought the fashion industry an unprecedented recessionary market and a collapsed industry landscape. The industry is forced to change; concerning the well-being of labor force on the supply chain, the financial stress and livelihood of retailers and independent designers, the call to action is loud and clear for both consumers and members in the fashion industry.

[Photo: Gilbert Carrasquillo/GC Images via Getty Images; Marten Bjork/Unsplash]

The question arises that how can we recover from the crisis, while at the same time, reshape the industry with a determined objective in fixing the entrenched ethical and environmental issues to rebuild the industry for the better. After all, the fashion industry is responsible for millions of forced and trafficked laborers, ever-growing racism incidents, and 10 percent of global carbon dioxide emissions every year, according to the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC).

To a surprising degree, ever since the pandemic has landed on fashion’s doorstep, members of the industry across the globe have come together and taken measures in overcoming the crisis collectively and spontaneously. From designers navigate their teams to make masks and gowns for health care workers, to self-isolating fashion students in Prague sew masks and release “how-to” videos to help instruct the general public, to big conglomerates like LVMH, L’Oréal, and Coty repurpose factories to produce hand sanitizer for medical use. All of these happened when no one is making any money; finally, the profit-driven industry shifted priorities voluntarily. If only it doesn’t take a pandemic to wake the fashion community up to embrace the spirit of volunteering, adapting, and cooperating while doing business.

So, if this public-spirited positivity and spontaneous, generous practicality could bleed into the core of the operation in the fashion industry, might we embrace an over-turning industry and revaluate the way in which we regard clothes and consumption.

Workers at one of LVMH’s cosmetics laboratories, some of which have switched over to making hand sanitizers.LVMH photo:Vogue.com

As Anna Wintour said in today’s Met Gala live stream, “The community is essential to who we are, and we need each other.” The industry needs to bring humanity, dignity and responsibility to all the equation of fashion productions. The fashion community needs to create a movement to which we can all belong.

The footwear brand Allbirds has made a constructive move: it will label every item produced with its carbon footprint like calories from now on, become the first to do so among all fashion brands. The brand is hoping the launch of its Carbon Footprint labeling will not only inspire carbon transparency but motivate the competition between brands so that collectively the industry’s commitment to sustainability can be achieved to some degree. The brand’s co-CEO Tim Brown said, “The good thing is that this invites competition—if there are people who see our numbers and think they could be better, that’s great. We all need to be working incredibly hard toward making products with a net-zero impact. That problem isn’t going to be solved just by Allbirds—it will be solved by sharing information and pushing each other.”

Many designers and executives have also made the call for change: they want to slow down, and they agree that both fashion shows and productions should be reduced. While there are interrogations on whether fashion weeks should be taken out for good, the nascent Nigerian designer Kenneth Ize, expressed the necessity of fashion shows to a newcomer like him in his conversation with British Vogue, “The [fashion] show moved our sales…. Doing a show gives a comfort to the buyers and to the consumers that this product is going to stay, it’s meant to be here.”

Extinction Rebellion protests outside London Fashion Week in February targeted fast fashion. Photograph: Ollie Millington/Getty Images

People might leave behind hectic consumerist lifestyles, give up making choices based on influencers and celebrities, forsake socially constructed peer-pressure and implied dress codes that are often exercised to be socially fit in. What people will embrace is self-loving, rational thinking, growing environmental awareness, and bearing the compassion and responsibility of global citizenship. The flood of orchestrated marketing feeds and seasonal trends will be less relevant. People will ask more questions to themselves regarding the necessity and patterns of their fashion consumption.

To achieve a global fashion revolution, surely not just concerns the participants in the industry. Each one of us, as consumers, should not be enslaved to society and other’s perceptions but enjoy fashion as it is meant to stimulate confidence and bring pleasure to individuals.

Finding Your Dream Wedding Dress At Home, Stress-Free

The pandemic puts thousands of spring weddings on hold and takes away the thrill of trying on every style of wedding gowns at showrooms and salons from brides-to-be. However, since the pandemic disrupts the supply chain and limits the traveling among multiple salons, it may have helped to avoid arguments and headaches that are often brought by choice overload.

As isolation and distancing become the new normal, now is the time for those who are in the process of shopping for the monumental gown to sit back and be decisive. After all, what are weddings for except to celebrate love and life? So, let’s not overly stress out about this shopping process but make it a lovely (fashion-forward) ride. We’ve carefully selected various styles from multiple brands that cater to your needs.

Monique Lhuillier

On top of embracing the traditional spirit, this ball gown adds a modern twist. With delicate lace embroidered onto every inch of the fabric, it looks as if the flowers are blossoming over your figure. Cutting out an open back and extending an embroidered train keeps up the ultra-feminine and luxurious essence.

This opulent strapless gown features a sweetheart bodice and full tulle lining. The high-low hem is perfect for showing off your wedding heels, and the train will look so elegant gliding behind as you walk down the aisle. The abstract floral beadwork is just crème de la crème, which makes one imagine channeling with the renewal of nature next spring.

Free of embroidery, laces, and tulles, this gown is what we call clean and minimalistic. It also offers a romantic yet dramatic silhouette, with slightly puffed sleeves, a twist at the waist and a thigh-high split, then falls to an elegant sweeping train. We think it’s perfect for brides-to-be who prefer sassy, modern chic. (The same style in salmon crepe color retails at $2995. The white one might result in price adjustment; for further details, please consult the brand’s bridal department.)

Click here to visit Monique Lhuillier Bridal Collection

Oscar de la Renta

Calling all contemporary brides who want to abstain from the traditional path! This tailored set is cut from ivory gabardine. The double-breasted jacket features classic lapels, patch pockets, and smooth silk lining, while the wide-leg culottes can’t make you more stretch-and-stress-free.

Does this get anymore Oscar? This signature Oscar de la Renta gown is just the epitome of effortless elegance.

Looking at another modern take on the wedding attire.The crisp, ultra-clean ivory jacket tops a wrapped chiffon minidress. Even better news is that the jacket is a closet staple; it certainly can be worn long after the big day.

This gown simply inspires us to think about putting a tiered waltz veil at the hip and top it off with a delicate lace bodysuit–voila– the most luscious ethereal gown with a natural draped sweep.

All price upon inquiry, click here to visit Oscar de la renta Bridal Collection

White By Vera Wang

If you’re looking for something clean, timeless, and budget-friendly, this is it. It features a high neckline and an elongated silhouette, and is particularly beautiful from the back, where it’s finished with a T-strap and an elegant bow. The satin sash around the waist also flatters the figure.

Lela Rose

For utilitarian brides, dress pockets triumph any lavish beadwork or embroidery. Well, this gown has it all–textured floral jacquard and the pockets. And it’s no secret that it’s exhausting for brides to shine through their big day, who would mind having those pockets for lipsticks, powders, wedding vows, and snacks!

Spring DayDream In The Time Of Quarantine

Florals For Spring? Groundbreaking.

Let’s just forget about that scene where the fashion mogul of the movie The Devil Wear Prada, Miranda Priestly coldly gives the deadpan remark at someone’s suggestion of florals for spring, shall we?

I’m inclined to turn a deaf ear to that iconic sarcasm whenever I fall for another floral print, and tell myself that it is too 2006 anyway! The truth is that floral for spring is like cream cheese for bagels, gravy for mashed potatoes, or Nutella for pancakes; it’s just meant to be! As far as the latest fashion trend is concerned, no brand is getting rid of florals on the runway in 2020 whatsoever. So, without further ado, let me introduce some of my spring-vision looks coming out of the time of quarantine daydream.

🌼Strapless Graphic Multi Print 🌼👒

Dress: ML Monique Lhuillier | Handbag: Chloé (Nile minaudière) | Heels:Nine West

This dress strikes me the most as its print carries a hint of a swinging ’60s motif, and of course, the bubble hem. It first brings to mind Audrey Hepburn in Funny Face, and then a little bit of Carrie(how surprising). The accentuated sunflower (I guess?) print vibes with sunflower fields and full of joy, and no one can pass by a sunflower field without smiling. So, imagine how delightful it would be when others see you covered in that splendor and fuzziness. Given the crazy times, we can use a pop of yellow and sunflower of hope as they make our hearts sing bright songs just like the folks in Funny Face.

I admit that the silhouette of the dress alone might come across a little out of fashion. But with styling tricks, it totally could keep up with modern chic and elegance. I intentionally chose a pair of violet satin heel to accentuate the yellow. Though purple and yellow are opposite on the color wheel, they bring out the best of each other when matching together. I would also love to top it off with an oversized straw hat and a pair of gloves like Audrey Hepburn did. (I don’t know where is this coming from, but I keep imagining myself wearing this dress in Rome.)

Timeless Polka Dots 👠

Dress: Marc Jacobs | Handbag: Chanel (Wallet on chain) | Heels: Nine West

I couldn’t think of any scene other than a rainy day in NYC more suitable than wearing this dress with a pair of red heels and a transparent umbrella. Polka dots never go out of style. We know that. But that’s not the ultimate reason why this dress caught my eye; rather, it’s the fit-and-flare silhouette and the fabric.

The off-the-shoulder ruffle sleeves are very flattering, while the tiered ruffles at the hem add a vibrant, bubbly feel and create beautiful movement. Also, the lightweight silk is airy and soft, which makes you feel that you’re floating with confidence. The belt comes with the dress is just the crown jewel of the outfit. Frankly, if it’s not for the belt, I would’ve had second thoughts of buying this dress.

screenshot on Saks Fifth Avenue retail site

This season’s Carolina Herrera is in, looks familiar? And the price, yikes. My Marc Jacobs one is from two years ago, and I bought it on sale for about $400. But I found the exact one for sale now on lyst.com so that you can get it!

Since we are under lockdown, I have to work with what I’ve got in my closet and modeled them myself. (Sorry about the compromised quality of photos) The dresses I showed are previous seasons. But I thought displaying my visions might do some inspiration, and I promise that they are not outdated, precisely what I will wear once we can walk out of this crazy time(unless it turns out to be fall or winter, then it’s a sad story.) In case my style is to your liking, I’ll attach some flattering florals that I enjoy and are available for sale right now. Let’s Keep it classy even in our daydream. 👠💋

For the sunflower print dress I showed before, I’m not sure what season of ML Monique Lhuillier it was, and I purchased it on TheRealReal in February for $50. The brand is known for bridal and gowns. Choosing from the latest collection, this one would be my vision for this spring as well.

Click here to shop Monique Lhuillier

Click here to shop LoveShackFancy on Net-A-Porter

Click here to shop Needle&Thread on Net-A-Porter

How Covid-19 Pandemic Has Decimated The Fashion Industry

With fashion shows canceled, events postponed, manufacturers shut down, and warehouses closed, the fashion industry has been deeply shattered in the wake of the coronavirus pandemic.

A person walks past Bergdorf Goodman on Fifth Avenue in New York as retailers reported a major downturn in sales related to the coronavirus outbreak. Photo: Reuters

The brave new world is upon every industry and individual. As the coronavirus shuts down the economy and threatens billions of lives across the globe, though the fashion industry is actively coping with the evolving situation, the future remains devastatingly dark. The challenges faced by the industry are on many levels, from supply chain to labor force, to cash flow, to consumer demand and market response, and above all, the way in which ensures health and safety.

The Business of Fashion and McKinsey & Company have released a report in examining the impact of Covid-19 on the $2.5 trillion fashion industry. According to McKinsey Global Fashion Index (MGFI) analysis, states that “56 percent of global fashion companies were not earning their cost of capital in 2018, we expect a large number of global fashion companies to go bankrupt in the next 12 to 18 months.”

Store closures due to quarantine measures has triggered a catastrophic domino effect, as the report warns 80 percent of fashion companies will face financial distress if lockdowns are extended more than two months.

Before Covid-19, fashion retailers were already suffered for years due to the disruption of digital shopping, now the virus has put the final nail in the coffin of brick-and-mortar retail businesses, especially the small, independent ones.

But with enforced store closing, whether long-standing department stores, top-notch brands, or nascent designer labels are all struggled by continuing with online sales while finding sources of income to equal that of their store sales and make up for heavy rent stress.

Retailers nationwide selling non-essentials are temporarily shut down due to the pandemic.
George Chinsee/WWD

photo: Forbes “A “Temporarily Closed” sign hangs in the window of Nordstrom Inc. store in the Midtown”
© 2020 BLOOMBERG FINANCE LP

Looking back at the time of the aftermath of the 911 attacks. People stopped buying clothes, so that most brands used the strategy of making unparalleled discounts in attracting consumers to reduce inventories and minimizing losses.The popularization of discounting and outlet stores since then has eaten into the whole structure of how fashion works. But the virus impact is much more complex and severe, it suspends people’s disposable income and retailers find it hard to stir up sales even with discounts.

With 50% off promotions piling up in the email inboxes, most consumers are not interested in fashion consumption right now. With the unemployment rate in the U.S. climbs high, if anything, spending for most people has gone to groceries and healthcare essentials.

Other than cash-strapped consumers, the Mckinsey report proposes that there will be a rise in anti-consumerism as deep discounting plagues retailers for the remainder of 2020. Consumers will no longer want to pay much for luxuries once they’ve used to the lower price. Hence the luxury sales can expect to be exacerbated for the following year. The report also states, “To reach increasingly frugal and disillusioned consumers, brands must find inventive ways to regain value and rethink their broader business mission.”

Cyclists ride past a locked up Selfridges department store in Oxford Street, London, the UK. Photo: AFP

A pedestrian crosses a deserted Fifth Avenue in New York. The coronavirus spread is hugely impacting the fashion industry in the US and globally. Photo: EPA-EFE

According to the New York Times, as of April 16, the $349 billion US small business rescue loan program has already run out of funds. To plenty of American designers, the news is too heartbroken to hear. According to Vogue, Victor Glemaud, a knitwear designer and CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund alum, was turned away by both banks where he applied for a Paycheck Protection Program loan after weeks of waiting and confusion. “What seemed possible at the beginning of the process has turned into a complete non-starter,” Glemaud tells Vogue.

Vogue and the CFDA have launched A Common Thread, a fundraising initiative that in hope of reducing the struggles of the fashion community.

What the future holds for fashion creativity is also in question. Designers are debating whether they should design new collections for the coming season or even year. Marc Jacobs shared in his conversation with British Vogue editor-in-chief, Edward Enniful, that his design team could not make the next step as the way they work is always seeing the materials from Italy first, then incorporating ideas and executing the design. But now every department comes to a grinding halt. And Jacobs expressed that he frankly didn’t think the new collection will be made.

The uncertainty surrounding COVID-19 has also given the industry a chance to reevaluate not only the structure of business operation but the industry’s value chain.

Carrie Bradshaw’s Lifestyle Could Be Problematic, But Her Style Still Stands The Test Of Time

Other than that blonde, naturally curly (c-c-c-curly!) hair, I’m fully aware that Carrie Bradshaw and I are very different on many levels. But it doesn’t stop me from imagining myself living her life, like this moment when I’m sitting in my room writing this blog post.

I wasn’t a part of the era when Sex and The City made its debut and became a phenomenal hit. It was Gossip Girl that swept my underdeveloped preteen brain away.

Until my late adolescence, I first watched SATC, and it was mind-blowing. But after years of re-watching, with the exploration of self-identity and the development of the value system, I’m no longer the teenager who blindly worshiped everything the show conveys.

Fashion, the city, love, friendship, they could easily make us overlook other issues in the show, such as lack of diversity, fake feminist behavior, middle-class privilege… Regardless, the fashion in the show is nothing short of legendary. Looking back from more than two decades later, we can only agree that Carrie Bradshaw has always been ahead of the game.

Cinched-Waist Shirt

It’s safe to say that we all at least saw once elsewhere that resembled this look. The cinched waist white shirt has been a trend for quite some time. And yes, it was Carrie who started this sartorial masterpiece by borrowing from Mr.Big’s closet and wearing his button-down shirt with an Hermès leather belt and strategic zhooshing.

The Slip Dress

Whether it’s the asymmetrical floral dress or the minimalism white slip dress, they are the looks you can easily pull off once the weather warms up. The off-the-shoulder ruffle and fluttery sleeves correspond to the drapery of the dress, bringing out splendid femininity. Or to choose the effortless, chicest lustrous silk-satin slip, the soft cream hue itself adds to the romantic feel, and the figure-skimming shape keeps up simplicity and elegance. Not sure what shoes to pair with? Try crystal-encrusted PVC mules— one of last summer’s hot trend—see how Carrie Bradshaw showed us 20 years ago.

In the book “Fashion on Television: Identity and Celebrity Culture,” Helen Warner articulates that celebrities’ images serve to “support the modern philosophy that through the development of fashion ‘everyone can be anyone.'” Which explains a big part of the reason why we find fashion fascinating.

It’s the fantasy that hides behind fashion. It’s fashion that weaves boundless possibilities for us to escape from reality and be someone else temporarily. And Carrie’s style demonstrates this philosophy. What’s wrong with spicing up more fun by staging scenes in head while choosing outfits!

Look at this notable Carrie-believed Parisian style resemblance. Women around the world love to emulate Parisian style for its effortlessness. Even if it’s not really Parisian, the way she includes a beret into a spring-summer dress is what we could all recreate some time.

source: screenshot by me on Amazon Prime

Though Carrie didn’t intentionally dress as some other characters (Not that we know of, she might secretly think of someone!)in this outfit, I can see it resembles Jackie Burkhart’s cheese maiden uniform in That ’70s Show. With that little puffy sleeves and a pop of 🍊, it’s just bubbly and sweet for a beautiful day.

The combination of bubble hem and tulle spell for layers of delicacy, and it will swish beautifully on either side of the road under the Eiffel Tower, or at your home. Some may say that this combo looks outdated and over-the-top. But in retrospect, the swingy silhouette that the voluminous tulle with tiered ruffles creates is what remains intricately favored by celebrities that they would choose to dress on big fashion night.

Apart from the style, it turns out that, instead of Carrie’s glamorous life, now I want the uncertain future of my own. For better or for worse, Carrie Bradshaw stayed in the past, and she could no longer change. But I could, and I did. She was a marker of my growth and looking back at her, I’ve realized how much I’ve grown.

I know there’s someone who has been on the same emotional journey like me, but just because we’re no longer yearning for Carrie’s life adventures, doesn’t mean that we can’t continue to love her style. Life, lifestyle, and style are very different.

Blake lively’s once said in an interview:

“Style is how you say: This is who I am today.”
—- quoted in Helen Warner “Fashion on Television: Identity and Celebrity Culture”

We can dress to be anyone, but we’re not going to lose ourselves for that.

Street Fashion: Forget About Skinny Jeans, Try These Denim and Pants Trends

When it comes to bottoms, jeans have been most people’s go-to. Although denim is never going to retire from anyone’s closet, denim styles have some in and out. In recent years, the debate about whether skinny jeans are out of fashion has popped up. Skinny jean-lovers probably could not wrap their minds around how the statement could be brought up in the first place.

After decades of riding high, are skinny jeans really dead? According to what we spotted from the city to the college campus: wide-leg, straight-leg, kick-flare, boyfriend, mom… everything but skinny jeans. Sorry! But as one door closes, another always opens, let’s take a peek at this spring’s street trends of denim and pants. At the end of the day, it’s still your choice whether to say goodbye to a drawer full of skinny jeans.

Denim on Denim

Denim-on-denim, once a fashion faux pas, it even has a satirical term called “Canadian Tuxedo”. Indeed, it is a style that people always have polarized opinions on, but double denim has resurged in recent street style. A-list celebs are now often seen pulling off double-denim looks at fashion shows and mostly, on streets.

Putting together monochrome denim is tricky, but it’s also playful. Whether to use double denim for a laid-back LA vibe, or an easy-breezy NYC street chic, the key here is to create a slouchy silhouette. The responsibility mostly falls on the bottom, play with all-you-want different shades and washes, but choose loose-fitting jeans.

.@bellahadid's denim-on-denim look at Paris Fashion Week is giving us flashbacks to 2001. 👖👀 https://t.co/UFECoAgzJy
— POPSUGAR Fashion (@POPSUGARFashion) March 4, 2020

Many may still recall the image of iconic denim overload of Britney Spears and Justin Timberlake at the 2001 American Music Awards. They set fire to the pop culture world back then. After 20 years, the Hadid Sisters are leading the fashion renaissance of double denim looks. Canadian Tuxedo, we are here for it!

Party Invitations Only Send to Loose-Fitting Pants

The 80s and 90s silhouettes are picking up steam in the denim world, with straight-leg boyfriend, mom, slouchy, flared jeans, and wide-leg styles all making a big comeback.

Not only do straight-leg jeans suit many different body types, but they also make legs look ultra-lean thanks to the slim silhouettes. Whether cutting it from rigid, non-stretch denim, or with extremely distressed finishes, the straight-leg fit always gives out an authentically worn-in and laid-back feel.

Walking down Madison Ave on a brilliantly sunny day, uptowners are seen sporting bottoms in all shapes, sizes, shades and splendor. Straight-leg and wide-leg styles are in the lead. #StreetStyle pic.twitter.com/g5zxHSdcYM
— The Beau Monde Express (@MondeExpress) March 14, 2020

Slouchy and Baggy

This high-rise, slouchy black washed jean is offered in clean and whiskered finishes and cropped to a shorter length. It looks relaxed and sophisticated at once, thanks to the shape as well as a flattering high-rise waist. We can take a page from this girl’s stylebook: look at how she used the white belt and sneakers to match with the white stitches on the pockets.

The one on the right is probably the most fit-to-standard slouchy jean. Key characteristics of the baggy “hip-hop” style are having a low rise and a long zipper. The roomy look is not necessarily flattering to every body type, with slinging low on the hips, butts will be obscured in this case. If you still want to flaunt your butt, high-rise boyfriend or mom jeans are better choices.

Kick-Flare

This 70s-inspired style fits slim through the thighs and then kicks out to cropped flared cuffs. With a bootcut, you can show off your shoes with ease. It also goes beautifully with everything from chunky coats to crop tops.

Wide-Leg Corduroys

We can understand Miranda’s problem with corduroy, but we have to do corduroy some justice. Here we have a beautiful corduroy-wear example which has a 70s feel: olive green wide-leg corduroy pants paired with a brown leather zip-up jacket, and look at that shoe! Light mint croc-embossed booties with pointed toes, ah, what an artist!

And we can explain to Steve what’s so wrong with corduroy. It’s only wrong when you wear it to an evening gala. But for a daily casual look, corduroy can be a good friend, especially in the cold season. Just remember to choose the right silhouette, and here’s an advice: wide-leg or flare, no slim-fit!

Long Live Princess Diana

It’s been over two decades since Lady Diana Spencer’s life was taken by the horrific car crash in Paris. Guess the reality hit her and us hard. Even as a true princess, her life wasn’t a fairytale, by any means.

Despite her discomfort regarding constant media attention, and the responsibilities of which would shoulder on her once she married the prince, Diana was so convinced that she and the prince were in love; if only she could know before the marriage that the prince was in love with another woman. She suffered from bulimia and depression, and always felt being an outsider in the Royal Palace. As such, her dramatic life story has exploited by media throughout her life, even to this very day.

April 22, 1986
In a black dress paired with a black-and-white blazer arriving in England

From the moment of Diana’s entry into public life, she became a site of public pleasure and property of the royal kingdom, but she grew and thrived from all of those. In her last years, Diana did an interview with BBC Panorama where she stripped away the strings and shared her critique of the monarchy. The interview significantly interrupted the racial and patriarchal boundaries of British aristocracy.

“Anywhere I see suffering, that is where I want to be, doing what I can,” said Princess Diana. The “People’s Princess” was always dedicated to humanitarian work. Her tireless charitable endeavors helped numerous people who were afflicted HIV and those who lost their limbs to landmines. “I am not a political figure, I am a humanitarian figure, always was, always will be.”

April 9, 1985
In a blue coat by Bellville Sassoon with matching hat and a patent-leather clutch while visiting Hereford Cathedral.

Apart from her extraordinary humanitarian efforts and bold royal exposure, Diana often communicated through her clothing, both politically and personally. “It is very surprising how little footage there exists of the Princess actually speaking. We all have a sense of what we think she was like, and yet so much of it comes from still photographs, and a large part of that [idea] is communicated through the different clothes that she wore,” said Eleri Lynn, curator of Diana: Her Fashion Story.

https://youtu.be/TToTZWDng8M

As of today, Princess Diana is still remembered as one of the most powerful fashion icons of all time. Her style and sophistication were highly loved and emulated. More importantly, Diana’s style often shook up the limitation and stuffiness of conventional royal fashion.

December 8, 1982
In a red glittering dress while attending a ballet at the Royal Opera House in Covent Garden.

Not only is her clothing timeless, glamorous and classy, but it also has an indescribable enchantment that somehow makes all of us feel relatable (maybe not the part that she was born with a palace to inherit). This relatability probably comes from our empathies to her, which we feel that deep down she was an imperfect, introverted woman with a strong soul. She reminded us that even the princess went through the same struggles normal people dealt with.

Dominant leaders in the fashion world have also never parted from Diana’s influence. Generations of designers are inspired by her. The king of streetwear, Louis Vuitton’s current artistic director Virgil Abloh dedicated his label Off White’s SS18 collection to Diana.

Left: Off White SS18 collection |Left photographer: FRANCOIS GUILLOT | Right: Tim Graham

And last year, Vogue Paris invited Hailey Bieber to collaborate a feature shoot in paying tribute to Diana. The issue went viral. Since then, the fashion world’s and Hailey Bieber’s obsession with Diana’s athleisure looks have strengthened.

photo: allure.com. (left: Instagram @haileybieber/ Right: Getty Images)

From the bicycle shorts to the sweatshirts, from the oversized jackets to the cowboy boots, Diana spearheaded so many modern-day trends. Princess Diana’s influence lives on and continues to inspire, in fashion and in life.

“Only do what your heart tells you.” ——Princess Diana

We will always remember.

GETTY IMAGES
July 27, 1989
In a white blouse, pink skirt and matching satin heels at a *Swan Lake* performance in London.

NYFW Fall 2020 Trends

Turns out, trends are nostalgic as hell.

Puffy Sleeves Are Not Going Anywhere

If you thought that it was time for the puff sleeve to step down, think again.

The hyper-feminine puff sleeve originated in the Renaissance, but its heyday was during the Victorian and Edwardian eras. In the 1980s, the puff sleeve resurged and became a phenomenal fashion trend. Since 2018, the puff sleeve quietly made its way back into fashion mainstream.

It’s been spotted everywhere, red carpets, fashion weeks, Hampton beaches (Nah, any beach actually); the point is, when the puff sleeve is made of luxurious textiles, it’s a statement-making couture piece that is easy to pull off. And when it uses cotton and light colors, then it screams summer vacations.

Badgley Mischka
Nicole Miller
Ulla Johnson
Ulla Johnson
Hakan Akkaya The Shows at Pier 59 Studios on February 08, 2020 in New York City. (Photo by Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images for Hakan Akkaya)
Badgley Mischka
Erdem
Zimmermann
Zimmermann
Badgley Mischka
photo: pinterest
Photo: pinterest

All photos courtesy of this page goes to Vogue.com

One thing magical about puffy sleeves is that they are flattering for any body type. In accentuating the shoulders, all the attention goes to the shoulders instead of the waist. Hipsters might knit their brows when it comes to the puffy sleeve, as oftentimes it leaves the impression of over-the-top feminine wear. However, as seen on Hakan Akkaya’s runway, the puffed sleeve worked well with leather and kept up with the designer’s enduring punk spirit.

The puff sleeve has taken over the throne of off-the-shoulder summer tops in the last two years. But in 2020, it will step more into the territory of fall and winter fashion—jackets and knits with the puff sleeve, we are ready.

Cutouts Go Wild

We are not strangers to showing skin with cutouts, but we’re probably not used to wearing it in fall. NYFW has panned out numerous ways to show a pop of skin for Fall 2020.

Forget about the subtle sex appeal delivered by the shoulders. Meticulously designed modern cutouts can be done anywhere without seeming like vulgar costumes. Even the most basic garment could become flirtatious with that little pop of peekaboo skin. In fact, on top of giving a hint of sexiness, modern cutouts usually elevate the garment to a refined classiness. I’m personally loving Dion Lee’s wide-leg pant with parallel hip cutouts, as long as I have that exact same leather strap to show off with.

Plaid Madness

Yes, it’s that old chestnut again. Plaid.

Fashion editors probably are as sick of reporting plaid trends every fashion season as we are of seeing it over and over again(sorry! we love you plaid). But seriously, we can’t help but wonder, will ever plaid go out of style? Not likely.

Admittedly, designers have once again managed to play with plaid beautifully. Whether creating full suited looks with various plaid patterns or making deconstructed looks by throwing in dashes of plaid or patching together multi-print plaids. On a styling note, see how plaid look always top off with a cinched waist.

Tartan, plaid, check, gingham, patchwork, the plaid pattern family tree goes way back. The plaid pattern is so versatile that it can be used to express any style: grunge punk, classic preppy, full equestrian, working professional, whatever style you are in mood for—-plaid is at your service. Guess that’s why plaid has always reigned in the fashion world through time.

It’s a Bowtiful Season

Along with the return of hair ribbon bow trend, the ribbon bow has taken on a life of its own on the NYFW Fall 2020 runway.

Tom Ford
Brock Collection
Tom Ford
Zimmermann
Brock Collection
Zimmermann
Brock Collection
Erdem
Erdem
Tom Ford
Claudia Li
Zimmermann

An enormous bow can weigh you down, but a dark hue velvet ribbon can be much more playful. Whether using ribbon bow as a belt, a necktie, or a simple embellishment, ribbon bow can add a flair of sexiness, romance or elegance depending what garment it is on. The good news is that you don’t have to wait till next fall, you can try fastening a simple velvet ribbon into a pretty bow at your waist now. Or, as Zimmermann used the wide mulberry velvet for a necktie, try making a bow out of your scarves.

This season’s ribbon bows didn’t make us feel over-the-top and dramatic, instead it made more of a statement of delicate feminine strength. Hopefully, the next red carpet season, we wouldn’t find gigantic bows wrapping up celebrities.

You can argue that trends for this year’s New York Fashion Week are out-of-date, but come on, we will have some fun with them.

NYFW: Marc Jacobs Fall 2020—A Love Letter to New York City

Video courtesy of MarcJacobs YouTube Channel

Marc Jacobs Fall 2020 Collection is hearkening back to New York City in the 60s. And just when you think fashion shows can no longer impress you. Marc Jacobs: Hold my purse!

With polarized comments coming out at the dramatic chaos that Marc Jacobs Fall 2020 showcase has curated, I found myself weirdly calm about the anxiety-inducing soundtrack and the chaotic stage. Dancers bent over, ran around among the show-goers, models walked onto the runway in packs and mingled with the running dancers; somehow it felt like they were portraying New York City itself.

A hodgepodge of people of all kinds displays various social tableaux. Day and night, in and out, people work their hearts out in this city, for this city. Once you finally find a way to shield yourself from the noise and chaos and look at the clothes, calmness can slip into you from the clothes themselves.

Free of jewels, ornaments, brocades, and loud prints, this season’s collection has retired all of these supposedly luxurious cherry-on-top clothing embellishments. Instead, matching coats, hats, and tights in an appeasing color palette have manifested easy chic. Plus, the bright tights, the green tartan dress, and red berets really stirred up my youth memories of bending the knee (imitating her style) to our Queen B (Blair Waldorf from Gossip Girl).

Everyone can find something to suit themselves in this collection. i.e., Peter Pan collar sweatshirts and straight-leg denim for artsy college students wandering galleries and bookstores; A-line three-button coats and two-piece matching bra suits for Upper East Side preppies putting on lipstick and getting in the limo; oversized structured blazers and matching Bermuda shorts for straight-edged East Village working professionals shuttling back and forth from work.

This season’s Marc Jacobs is just as versatile and diverse as New York City itself, in which no one has to assimilate. There is casualness and glamour. There are clothes for everybody.

photo:elle.com
Marc Jacobs Fall 2020 Runway

As seen in pastel oversized coats, zebra print, Bermuda Shorts, Peter Pan collars, and Mary Janes—clearly, Jacobs is hearkening back to New York City in the 60s, where the true center of the hippie movement occurred. It was also the time and place where artistic creation blossomed, and bound by the uncontaminated love and passion of thinking minds, without the intrusion of the internet and expectations of money and fame.

Here we have something that we haven’t seen before. The 3d flower embordiered dress definitely shows a new take on tailoring, and it’s not overly dramatic or extravagant, but has just enough gorgeousness. Hey, have some faith. A future of fashion where fashion houses are inclined to become recycling machines, but in textiles, not in design!